We were at this protest on Rothschild at night a few weeks ago, and I saw last night on PBS that it’s still going on. It’s pretty wild. A tent village, bazaar, protest, sit in, carnival, rally, debate, exposition right in the middle of the city.
There’s some good stuff in the video on the ways a government separates its people with politics and divisive action.
View of the city from our hotel breakfast room. We ended up staying in a Russian medical-tourism hotel next to a hospital on strike. Sure.
The view from Jaffa with Tel Aviv shoreline and the Mediterranean Sea in the background.
A corridor in Old Jaffa. With its flea market, its laid back cafes and hip shops, Jaffa was a favorite of mine.
Nicole learned that nothing moves sugar packets quite like a photo of Golda Meir.
Friend and fellow writer, Dave Green, was kind enough to show me around. Thanks, Dave!
-So Nicole and I were in Tel Aviv all last week. It was a last minute trip and kind of crazy coming together. We only had four days to plan activities before leaving (Nicole was working all day too) so I didn’t go to Jerusalem or any big, “life-altering” tourism sites. I did write in a park a couple days, get to the beach for an afternoon, and walk around the city for 3-6 hours per day. My destroyed feet aside, it was a pretty awesome trip. There aren’t many photos to share–as I didn’t take many pictures of myself walking alone–but the gallery above exhibits some highlights.
-We did see a huge housing protest along Sderot Rothschild one night. It was pretty interesting. There were bands playing, people arguing, people there gawking with their kids, street performers, etc, etc. It’s the Israeli version of The Rent is Too Damn High campaign, I guess.
-We did not visit the Gaza Strip or West Bank, which pretty much doomed any hope that I could write a secret agent thriller based upon our travels. There wasn’t much thrilling about buying fresh juice on the street or shopping for sunglasses at a mall pharmacy. We didn’t even ride public buses, because, you know, safety first.
-For our first overseas trip, I think we handled ourselves pretty well. The twenty-four hours of travel each way was rough, but we dealt with it. The language barrier wasn’t such a big deal. Even though our hotel was in a district that wasn’t super tourist-friendly, it was easy enough to get along. Luckily all the street signs are printed in Hebrew, Arabic, and “Roman Alphabet,” so at least you knew what street you were on.
-Tel Aviv is awesome. You can drink limonana all day long. We did.
These past couple weeks I’ve begun work on drafting the final section of my novel, The Hyphenates of Jackson County. Since I began the book, I knew the story would end with the events surrounding the Omaha Race Riot of 1919 and the lynching of Will Brown outside the Douglas County Courthouse, and in some ways I’ve been working backward from that point in my mind, figuring out both how such a thing came to happen and why it’s a part of the story I’m telling.
Will Brown, killed by lynch mob in Omaha, in 1919.
There’s quite a bit that’s been written about what happened in downtown Omaha on September 28, 1919–first-hand accounts, timelines of events, conspiratorial explanations for its cause, a Grand Jury investigation–but surprisingly little has been written about whether or not the accusation of rape that led to Will Brown’s brutal lynching was true or not, or somewhere in-between. This is so for a variety of reasons. Foremost, there was never anything resembling a trial that would have brought some of the details of the case to light; Brown was lynched a mere three days following his arrest. Beyond that, there was a fire at the police station years later that destroyed any police record of the event, and Will Brown wasn’t from the Omaha area, and he didn’t have family here that would remember or memorialize him. I imagine any of his friends would deny any connection to him after the riot, out of fear. Also, as is common, no one really wanted to talk about the incident after it happened, particularly in the intervening years. So the truth remains something of a mystery. Which is where the historical fiction writer comes in, I guess.
During my preparation for writing this final part of the book, I came across an NPR feature from last spring that is really quite enlightening, horrifying, and sad. I feel compelled to share it here, and strongly urge you to take a listen. I’m not sure if Bridgette McGee-Robinson–the granddaughter of a man, Willie McGee, who was accused of raping a white woman and subsequently executed in an electric chair–unearths a lot more information than she already knew before she sought out to find the truth about her grandfather, but the story illustrates so well why such things happened. Most likely, Willie McGee had an ongoing sexual relationship with woman for quite some time, and once that relationship was found out, it was easier for her to damn McGee than it would have been to suffer the stigma attached to a white woman who willingly carried on with a black man. It’s the pull of propriety that caused the whole thing to happen like it did. For the jurors (all white) to admit the possibility that a white woman had sex with a black man consensually would turn their society upside-down, of course. McGee was originally kept from being lynched by the National Guard, and if it wasn’t for that, the affair and its dirty, deconstructing realities would have disappeared much more quickly and completely, as was the case with Will Brown’s murder.
Willie McGee, executed by electric chair in Mississippi, in 1951.
But history doesn’t always stay buried like it’s supposed to, and that’s what makes this feature so interesting to me–in particular, that it’s a family historian, the granddaughter of an executed prisoner, who brings the story back into our field of vision and gives the accused a second chance at some kind of redemption. It’s amazing how far-reaching the impact of such injustices reach. But there were spouses involved in this case, and kids, and eventually grandkids too. That this can become a trauma that stretches generations makes perfect sense–and there would be a tangential shame attached to the plaintive woman’s lineage too, I’d imagine–but maybe it’s something that gets lost in all the drama of courtrooms, jail cells, and electric chairs. Even if the families never talked about what happened to so-and-so, there would be a gap in the line.
In doing research on my own family I’ve often come across gaps in the lineage, or points when a branch on the family tree stops. The family records don’t often go back that far. People just want to remember the good things, so the bad seeds are left out of the family history. It’s understandable, and I’m sure we all do something similar in our own families. However, a gap can be extremely disappointing if it so happens that that gap, that bad seed, was your great-great-grandfather, and there’s now no way to track down their history, or even their name, much less what they did to shame everyone so much. I’ve had particular trouble compiling information on the Wheeler line beyond a few generations. I have no real reason to suggest that the reason for this lack of information is something bad, I just don’t know. Although my great-great-grandfather, Squire H.P. Little, was stabbed to death in the streets, in 1918, by a man he was supposed to arrest. The assailant “had had some trouble with his wife,” according to The Democrat of Caruthersville, Mo. People talk about that, though. Maybe it’s just that they were too poor to really keep track of their lineage, and only the census bureau or the WPA cared enough to write these things down otherwise. More than likely, that’s the explanation.
As I mention above, nothing is really known about the family of Will Brown, but his relations are out there somewhere still, even if there are no direct descendants.
I’m a little late with this, but the 100th anniversary of the Triangle Shirtwaist Factory fire was on March 25, and it seems appropriate to post something about it, what with the new labor struggles that have broken out in the upper Midwest. It’s always astonishing to me how bad working conditions in this country were before the labor movement. The fire itself is a monumental tragedy–the worst in New York until 9/11–but it is merely the punctuation of years of abuse and trampling of human dignity.
American Experience aired a great documentary on the fire, which you can see in its entirety on their website. I urge you to watch the full-length version–it’s really very compelling and sickening, in a way that demands your attention and outrage, even 100 years later. Below is a cribbed version.